Shanghai to boat

China, October 14,2014 Shanghai to boat

As we left Shanghai we had another learning/buying adventure. In the silk factory we learned about the life cycle of a silkworm to the finished silk product. 70% of the silkworm cocoons are made into silk and 30% are hatched and create another generation. Silk production was a Chinese secret for over 3000 years. The legends as to how the secret was smuggled out of the county vary; a princess smuggled it out in her headdress as a gift for her husband the Prince of
Khotan, refugees smuggled them, or monks took them out in their Bamboo walking sticks. Silk is still an important product of China. We first viewed rugs, as always Eileen’s taste is elegant, she set her eyes on a $14,000 rug that was maybe 16 inches long. The rest of her shopping was spoiled. After rugs it was clothing and scarves.

Traveling on the highways, which are perfect, you become aware of the number of cars that exist around the cities. A 1000 cars a day come into China, to accommodate them all you may only drive on Monday,Wednesday and Friday,if you have a even license plate, odds drive on Tuesday ,Thursday and Saturday, Sunday is for everyone. BMW is the preferred method of transportation, Bus, Metro or Walking.

On the bus we headed for Yichang to board the boat. Before boarding the boat we stopped at another park along the river. We saw a bride and groom having their wedding pictures taken, a group of older ladies practicing a dance with drums and scarves and three young men launched a drone. As we drove through town we saw several restaurants with the staff out in front doing their exercises before opening.

After lunch we boarded the boat. The boat houses 350 passenger, a medical center, a spa, two dining rooms, bar, game rooms, karaoke and many little stores. When we sailed on the Mekong the boat was much smaller. Our group eats 2 meals in the VIP dining room and has access to the VIP lounge for internet.

Boat day 2

I woke up early and went to the deck to do tai chi and take pictures. After breakfast I went to a lecture on Chinese medicine, I volunteered for the acupuncture demonstration. Later I signed up for treatment for my sinuses. When in Rome do as the Romans. It has been a very interesting treatment and experience. Regardless of the outcome I was the only one able to sleep through the late night movement through the locks.

In the afternoon we visited the site of the Three Gorges Dam. The construction of this dam was very controversial. The US and Canada were supposed to provide technical support but they withdrew from the project in 1993. Like the Aswan Dam there are a million pros and cons for the building of the dam. Thousands of people were relocated. They were given money to build new houses in new towns. The environmental repercussions are the same from theHuron River to the Yangzi, change in wildlife, elimination of species, silt build up and in some cases down stream the current is so slow the sewage is not moving, causing the build up of huge cesspools, loss of historical sites and excellent farm land. The size of the dam is smaller than the Hoover Dam, however the reservoir is much larger. The Hoover Dam generates 1345 mega watts, the Three Gorges generates 18200 megawatts.

In the evening we had the Captain’s party and traveled through the lock.
Day 3 boat

The haze hangs over all the mountains creating, from your point of view, mysterious photos or crummy photos.

We docked in Badong and traveled by small boat up the Shennong Stream. The landscape is as you see in fine Chinese paintings. This is a area where many traditional medicines are harvested. The mountains are steep, there is little room for footpaths along the base. People travel by sampans.

There is always entertainment on the boat. This weather has been cooler and damper than any weather we have had.

Day 4 last day on The boat

Our excursion today was to a Relocation Family and a kindergarten. The family talked about the advantages of the relocation. We saw a small garden in the back of the school. We were told it is an illegal garden because it has been planted at the wrong elevation according to government standards. The students at the school were having their singing and dancing time when we arrived. They are to cute for words. It almost made me lonesome for the classroom.

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Beginning in Beijing

Beijing China – October 6, 2014.

I know this is the first full day in China. I think it is Monday. Everything from Saturday morning is a blur of interrupted sleep, airplane food, screaming babies, tossing and turning in a very comfortable hotel bed but never really sleeping.

We started the day with the required getting to know you and here are the rules meeting.
Because this is the National Holiday week, our schedule is being altered so we can avoid crowds.

Our first stop was the zoo. We only went to see the Pandas who were totally uncooperative.
they eat until they are full, they sleep long hours everyday, have sex once a year…you would think they would be totally entertaining for the national holiday crowds but they weren’t, alas I have no Panda pictures. If you really need a picture, look it up on wikipedia where they will explain the debate about which family they belong to, racoon or bear. They will also tell you the life expectancy is about 30 years. They only eat four of the hundreds of kinds of bamboo in China, none of which grow in Beijing, it must be shipped in at an enormous cost to the zoo.
Beijing Pandas eat mostly meat.

Today was culture day. We rode a trishaw to a family home for a true family meal. We learned how to make dumplings. I am an absolute cultural failure with chopsticks. The house was very small by American standards, our table of 10 was placed in in the bedroom. The kitchen was The size of a closet in an older American home. The cooking utensils were a burner and a electric roaster. From roasted peanuts and bean curd , through several stir fry dishes to the dumplings the meal was a gourmet treat. We said xi xi and moved on to the Houtangs. The Houtangs are a maze of alleys created by courtyard houses. The Mongols built the first of these when they invaded Beijing. The house forms four walls that surround a courtyard where the mongals kept their horses. The current government reversed the policy of removing these houses and is now preserving them. We had tea with a older woman, retired telecommunications worker, who was given a lifetime lease for one fourth of the courtyard with shared bath facilities. She raised her family here along with three co workers who shared the unit. As the co workers died their adult children took over their parents part of the residence She said her life is lonely, she spends a lot of time walking and doing tai chi in the park.

The parks are lovely, there are many of them in the city and they seem to be very busy. With small residences the parks are very important in the life of the community.
The landscaping along the roads is meticulous, colourful flowers, manicured hedges and many trees. The military has planted many trees to protect the city from the sands blowing in from the gobi desert.

Before our dinner we walked in one of the parks, lovely trails around a lotus filled lake, benches with men playing chess, a garden pagoda with men playing cards, children fishing, several people practicing tai chi and young men playing what I would describe as foot badminton or hackie sac with a shuttle cock.

The last stop of the day was for Peking Duck. The meal was an unending procession of fabulous dishes.

The Great Wall

Beijing- Oct 7, 2014

After a melatonin fix I slept like a baby.

Today we went to the Great Wall, the only man made structure that the astronauts can see from space. It would stretch across the entire continental United States.
The wall began as a series of battlements but with the unification of China by Qin Shi in 220 BC the wall was unified.It was built to accommodate 5 horses riding abreast. The battlements were placed two arrow shots apart. The incline is incredible, perhaps as much as 45 degrees in some spots as it snakes across the steep mountains. During the 13th century the Mongals breeched the wall. The Manchu breeched it later. The majority of the wall is crumbling, several places have been restored. It is a UNESCO world heritage site.

We visited the Badaling section. The walk left me breathless, we did not make it to the battlement.

We had a photo op ( drive by shooting) of the Olympic Village. The air was hazey and the view was not really clear enough for a good shot.

China started making great progress after 1980. Life improved for many people as the technology increased. Within Beijing the number of cars, (1000/day) television sets and housing has grown rapidly. At one point they issued motorcycles permits but there was a high fatality rate so they zare no longer permitted. I am sure that we will see more bicycles later., but the vision of hundreds of bicycles no longer exists.
Young bides measure their future husbands by the five c’s, credit,condominiums,career,car and cash<
Our view of the houtang showed showed that life is comfortable for many but this is not a classless society.

When we are not with group we have been advised to eat in the hotel because of the water quality.

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LATE, LAST, BUT NOT LEAST

Model for ET

Model for ET

 About thirty years ago I heard a radio show about the Galapagos Islands.  I asked my craziest ,most adventurous friend, Mary, if she would go.  It required and boat and held no promise of shopping so Mary said no.  I have dreamed of a Galapagos adventure ever since.

 The reality did not disappoint.  The environment is pristine.  I watched local guides go out of their way to clean up the very few thoughtless messes that tourists left.  The water is crystal clear and the animals have no fear of humans.

 We stayed on one of the few licensed boats that is allowed to bring tourists to the islands.  Everyday we had two excursions from the ship via Zodiac to the island of the day.  Every night we watched from our cabin window as the sea lions, sharks, sea turtles, frigates, pelicans and flying fish played survival of the fittest.

 The Islands were formed by volcanoes and are still in an active cycle of formation and destruction.  We hiked in a lava tube, one of many on the islands.

The islands have served as a stronghold for pirates, a military base for the US government and a living laboratory for Charles Darwin.  In 1959 the Ecuadorian government named the islands a national park, in 1979 it was named a World Heritage site and in 1985 a World Biosphere Reserve by Unesco.  

 One of the points of interest was the POST OFFICE. 

pirate mail box that is still in use

pirate mail box that is still in use

A barrel installed in 1793 served as a drop off point for letters.  A person dropped off letters and then sorted through those left and  took for personal delivery those close to their destination.   I left one for San Francisco ( attn Millers)  and took one for Kalamazoo   ( the Chenoweth family).  

 We made three attempts at snorkeling.  The first off Gardner Bay, recently named one of the ten most beautiful beaches in the world, was billed as the least attractive of the snorkeling spots on the trip.  It actually turned out to be the best.  The water was clear and warm, the fish were colorful and plentiful.   The Parrot fish, whose eating and pooping of   the local coral is responsible for the ultra soft sand, were abundant.  Maggie was accompanied by a sea-lion who caressed her body as he swam above, below and to the right and left of her. This is one time in life where Maggie’s magnetic attraction to the males of all species did not cause any jealously in my bones. 

 The second snorkel trip was limited by a jelly fish hatch which stung several of us.  The third and most disappointing was ended by a strong current.  

 During the days of pirates, the islands were loaded with the giant land tortoises.  Pirates would take hundreds of them off the island and stack them, alive, on their back for fresh food on the long journey.   The Charles Darwin Station is making an effort to breed tortoises back to historical levels.  ( our guide informed us this could take up to five more generations)  Eggs and the babies are carefully marked so they are released to islands where the native DNA matches theirs. 

 Sea turtle nests are also protected and monitored.  The sex of sea turtles and alligators are determined by the placement of the eggs in the nest.   Eggs closer to the top and the heat are female and those lower and cooler in the nest are male.  (hot chicks and cool dudes-memory device shared by our guide).  

 Nazca Boobies,

Blue Footed Booby

Blue Footed Booby

Blue Footed Boobies, Albatross, Sally Light Foot Crabs, Finch, Hawk,  Iguanas  and sea lions were abundant at most stops.  <A living laboratory, a zoo without cages, this was definitely a trip of dreams.  <

HATS OFF TO ESTHER

 

Final Reflections / Hats off to Esther!!!

The impulse to travel is one of the hopeful symptoms of life.”

–Agnes Repplier,

American essayist

I have begun to classify the trips on my bucket list by the amount of strength and agility I perceive they will require.  I witnessed 2 parties that were eighty or older on this trip that taught me a lot about my future plans.

betty crab

betty crab

The one couple had obviously not read the travel material. Their clothing and shoes were inappropriate for the trip.  They were totally unprepared for the altitude and the wife became very sick because of the altitude.   I need to read every piece of information before a trip and I need to continue to consult doctors before

afternoon nap

afternoon nap

travel.

The altitude sickness was no joke.  It was not, as I heard my friends warn me,a matter of my asthma.  Even Maggie, who is more athletic than I will be in 10 lifetimes combined and lives in Denver was affected by the altitude.  The International Heath Medicine practice here in town gave me drugs to deal with the effects.  The drugs combined with the local coca leaves and tea were helpful.  Apparently altitude sickness affects your digestion and some of what we thought was travelers diarrhea was in-fact caused by the altitude and the quantity of food we were being “forced” to eat.

The other party was Esther, my new hero.  Esther is 85 and never missed a trick the entire trip.  She travels to many remote and exotic places, ( her next stop is a Bengal Tiger Reserve in India)  always reading before the trip, planning her simple wardrobe and rising to every challenge along the way.

I need to push myself both mentally and physically if I want to continue to travel.

My next stop is Iceland with Wendy Beckwith.  June – July.

More Quito

Today we stood on the equator. Out first stop was the middle of the world monument which was built by the French to celebrate the French and English expedition to prove the world was round and the equator was the center. Once proving it they named the land Ecuador meaning equal. When the country gained independence the kept the name.

A few miles down the road we went to the equator museum where we participated in demonstrations showing the effects of being in the north,south or exactly on the equator. On the equator your shadow diapers at the equinox, other wise it is either east or west of your body, depending on the season. The indigenous population used a sundial to tell them when to plant and when to harvest. The days on the equator are always the same length, 12 hours daylight and 12 night, there is no real season change except for wet and dry, you can always see the Big Dipper, Orion’s Belt, and the southern cross. We witness the true corollas effect with water and a drain, it actually changed by moving to the little sink a few feet away from the equator. We tried balancing eggs on a nail, only two people were able to successfully balance them. While trying to do the balance test typically given given by police to drunks we learned that your inner ear cannot compensate while on the equator. It was amazing that the effects of the equator can be felt a foot off of 00*.( bulletin, I ate breakfast with a doubter and he thinks it was all hokey)

It should be obvious by now that the person leading this tour loves,excellent food, good drinks and entertainment. Every place we go for a meal it is as if he were inviting you into his private home to serve you the best possible food. He loves a show of great ambience also. Lunch today was at a restaurant owned by two artists in an exclusive development on the edge off an old volcanic crater. Quito is surrounded by eleven volcanos. The dessert was poached (?) figs. This is second time we have had them and they could easily become a favorite.

Next stop, a cable car ride to the top of the city. The view was fantastic but the clouds hung so low that my pictures all look like I was stuck in a wad of white cotton candy.

Dinner on our own tonight with our new best friends Carol and Jim. Nothing fancy, just individual pizzas and wine in the hotel deli.

We watched the Michigan, Ohio state basketball game with Spanish commentators.

Wednesday

Our adventure the morning took us to the city center where we visited churches,all Catholic, and all dripping in fabulous art and gold leaf. Maggie is constantly reminding me about the greed of the church as well as the harsh ways they used to convert the natives to Catholicism. Ecuador at one time made Catholicism a requirement for citizenship.

Continuing on a theme we ate at another fabulous restaurant with figs for dessert
Tonight we have a festive city tour, a dinner with opera singer as the entertainment

Thursday we. Leave for the Galapagos where there will be no Internet connection. I will catch up on my seven hour lay over in Miami.

Quito

Quito

We left Cusco and had a long arduous journey to Quito. When we finally got through customs and loaded the bus we were all a little short on patiences. We still had a two hour journey to north of Quito which just seemed like a bridge too far. We finally made it to Hosteria Pinsaqui, an old hacienda that had been in the owner family for nearly three hundred years. It was Simon Bolivars favorite stop when travelling between Ecudor and Columbia. The room doors were all original with the old heavy brass keys. Each room had a wood stove for heat. The ambiance was restorative. Dinner was served in the large original dining hall. After dinner we returned to the room and surprise our wood stove had a fire and the bed had shot water bottle dressed in a little terry cloth robe. Bed was to inviting to resist.

In the morning we began the drive south back to Quito. Out first stop was a rose farm where we learned a out the production of roses. We visited the green houses that are planted with row after row of roses organised by color. The help begins each morning by cutting the roses that have tight buds. Unacceptable roses are put in a container and dumped in the trash. The trash pile was enough to make me weep, beautiful roses that just didn’t,t meet the standards set by the market. Cut roses are wrapped and moved by conveyor to be washed in soap, sorted again, packaged and then cut to the proper length. (The Russian market prefers an 18 inch while the US market looks for a 12 inch stem.) This farm ships 80,000 roses a day to Russia, US and Europe. All these roses are bred for looks and not fragrance.

Our next stop was the Otavalo Market, one of the largest indigenous markets in the world. Crafts, clothing, fresh foods and home goods.

Lunch was at a cultural center. Native soups, breads, chicken and Guiena pig were on the menu. One pass at a Guiena pig is enough for me. There was a local band and children dancers who entertained us.

We arrived at the hotel at about 630 and were off to another native dinner and more music.

The amazing Incas

We returned to Machu Picchu today to climb to higher heights. Maggie and I did not get our wake up call so we rushed through breakfast which meant no time for coca tea and no time for my altitude pill to start working.. We began climbing very steep steps, everyone was winded but I was not recovering as fast as the other days. I opted to turn around and spend the morning exploring by myself. After two hours I returned to town to site see until after lunch.

Lunch was at another fabulous buffet. After lunch there was shopping and the the train back down the mountain.

We had another long bus ride to Cusco for a two night stay.

Saturday Feb 2

Cusco is a lovely city with a very large square, built originally by the Incas. When the Spanish came they decreased the size of the square by building several streets of shops.
The Spanish also built a very large cathedral with a basilica. The art, silver and gold that adorns the walls,niches and side chapels is stunning and mind boggling. When the church was built the people in town pleaded for prime spaces to decorate with commissioned art work. There is a solid silver carriage that was pulled by horses. It has been converted to ride on a golf cart and is used for religious festivals. My favourite is the Last Supper painted by Zapota(?)) the food on the table consists of Andean bread and cheese and a roast Guinea pig. The face on Judas is the face of Pizzaro the Spanish conquistador.

We visited the Korichana, the sun Temple which has been converted to a Catholic Church. The architectural skill of the Incas is still maintained in parts of the building.

We stopped at Sacsayhuaman, an Inca fort that was never completed. The size of the stones and the shapes they are cut I so that each stone fits perfectly against the next and has remained in place several hundred years without mortar.

After a quick stop at an alpaca factory were we hosted in a private home for lunch. The meal was all native dishes made from ingredients purchased at the market that day. The surprise treat was Guinea pig. It is a greasy, stringy meat with small bones, one piece will last me a lifetime.

Evening free time was spent shopping the small stands for souvenirs that my kids will eventually donate to goodwill or toss.

The land of the incas

13* South

Tuesday Jan 28- Jan 30

Tuesday we took the boat to Iquitos, the bus to the airport, the plane to Lima, another plane to Cusco, a bus through Cusco to our fabulous hotel, Casa Andia, Private Collection. This journey took most of the day. The only unscheduled stop was Bembos Burgers, the most popular fast food store in Peru.

I also lost my innocence today. We drank coca tea and chewed the leaves as a preventive.

Dinner was exquisite with the requisite Andean harp player. This is the night that the rest of people joined trip. There appeared to be no problems until today when one of the older ( than me) women fell down stairs, fell getting on the bus and was barely responsive until the guide sent her to the local doctor. She is suffering from altitude sickness.

Our first stop today was a women’s weaving cooperative. They demonstrated the hand spinning techniques, and the natural dye. The red dye was the most amazing, it was made from a crushed bug that is a parasite on one of the cactuses. It takes one woman thirty days to make a table runner for which they charge $225 solaces or about $75 American. The woman dressed in native costumes. Each tribe has a distinguishing characteristic, this group’s was braided hair. Many purchases were made, sweaters, table runners and hats.

On the bus ride to lunch we learned about the history of land ownership in the Scared Valley. At one time all the land was owned by six families. The government bought the land and distributed it among 350 families. The large land owners were allowed to keep their houses and the reduced plot of land. We had lunch at one of the old plantation houses, Tunupa. The house has been restored and is very spectacular.

The major crops are potatoes (380 kinds), barley,quinoa, asparagus, coca and corn ( apparently) with the largest kernels in the world.

The last stop was Ollantaytambo, the best preserved of all the Inca sites and a still functioning Inca Village. I was faltering on the climb up but one of the guides stayed with me and cheered me all the way to the top. I dubbed him my hero and gifted him with beer.

I am the Champion

I am the champion

I am the champion

Monday

It started raining yesterday afternoon and continued through the night. A long storm is known as a female storm, a violent storm is known a male storm. The river was at an extreme high last May when it peaked, they are expecting an equally high level this May.

We skipped the 5:30 am bird watching adventure.
At breakfast we were joined by a female doctor from Wisconsin who has spent the last 22 years as a doctor in the Amazon. She said nothing she does resembles modern medicine, she works from a bare bones clinic that is the only source treatment for the local population. After several years she has been able to train enough help so she can return to the US for six months every year and work in an ER room to hone he skills and earn a modest living. She was at the lodge waiting for a ride into Iquitos to pick up supplies for her annual vaccine day.

Our morning activity was piranha fishing. I am the champion, I caught the first and largest piranha. I also caught a catfish, making me the winner for the most fish.
The time in the boat is wonderful. Next to the air conditioned room, it is the coolest place to be.

The afternoon was spent traveling the manmade shortcut between the Amazon and the Napo river. Before the road was constructed it took 16 hours to take a boat around the peninsula separating the two rivers, it now takes twenty five minutes to travel between the rivers. Thesis a real asset for farmers trying to move crops to markets.

Again Paul told us stories about the various medicinal uses for foods. He pointed out a tree that produces a fruit that is beneficial for woman. When the tree rots and falls over the woman wait for the. Men to split the tree open. It is usually filled with maggots that the women consider a sweet treat. Men do not eat the maggots or the fruits.

One of the national dishes of Peru is called Juanes. It is the food eaten on the feast day for St. John, June 24. It is rice, chicken, olives and a hard boiled egg wrapped in babjac leaves and boiled. We seasoned it with a tumeric sauce. We had some for our last dinner in the Amazon.

Tuesday is a day of travel by bus, boat and plane to Cuzco.